Advanced Salumi Course
1 – 5 November 2012
A collaboration with Slow Food Warwickshire, UK, and Garfagnana and Versilia, Italy
Course designed and led by Giancarlo Russo, National Coordinator for Slow Food Italy on meat topics and co‐author of Salumi d'Italia
On this course you will learn the theoretical and practical elements of making a wide variety of Tuscan salumi (cured pork products). You will work with a number of experienced Italian norcini (pork butchers) in hands-on sessions during which you may take notes, photos and videos. You will also receive a printed set of course notes. Previous participants have been able to return home and make the salumi they learned on the course, and have the confidence to experiment with their own recipes.
Course suitable for pig breeders, butchers, chefs and amateurs who want to make their own salumi. Maximum course size: 7 people.
Highlights
Course at a glance
Thursday
Arrival at Pisa airport or Viareggio or Pisa train station no later than 2.45 pm (one transfer to B&B, Camaiore will be provided at 2.45 pm)
Session 1: Introduction and theory with Giancarlo Russo
Welcome dinner at private Italian home
Friday
Session 2: Making sausages, salami and lardo with Bacci
Tasting lunch at Bacci's
Session 3: Salting meat with the Nutinis
Dinner
Saturday
Session 4: Butchering the pig with Bonuccelli
Tasting at Bonuccelli's
Transfer to agriturismo Il Venturo
Session 5: Q&A and review with Giancarlo
Session 6: Salumi and wine workshop with Giancarlo
Dinner at Il Vecchio Mulino, Castelnuovo
Sunday
Session 7: Pig to salumi with norcino Ismaele Turri (pig rearing, soppressata, biroldo, sausages, salami, prosciutto)
Session 8: Visit cross-breed pigs
Session 9: Do it yourself (make your own salami)
Slow Food dinner at Il Pozzo, Pieve Fosciana
Monday
Depart (one transfer from B&B will be provided after 7:00 am)
Extend your stay – ask about
Extra workshop with butchers who are masters of Tuscan salami (max 2 people).
Guided day tours to visit a cheesemaker, make bread in a wood-fired oven with a village baker, pick olives and visit olive press, visit a vineyard, tour one of the famous Lucca villas, walking tour of Lucca and much more.
Course
Thursday 19 January
Arrive Pisa airport or train station and transfer to B&B
One pick-up only no later than 14.45.
Session 1: Introduction and theory with Giancarlo Russo
- What you will do with norcini (pork butchers)
- Various cuts of pork (Italian approach)
- Key steps in preparing the pork
- Boning, division into joints and rifilatura (shaping) the pieces
- Pork skin
- The mixture for salami
- Putting the mixture into casings and tying
Welcome dinner at Italian home
Gabriella Lazzarini has invited us to her home for dinner. Seafood is her great love. She buys from family fishermen who sell their catches at the nearby Viareggio molo (no endangered species here).
Friday 20 January
Breakfast
Session 2: Insaccati (meat in 'sacks') with Massimo Bacci
- Sausages, salami & mortadella nostrale: grinding, seasoning with spices and wine, filling skins, and tying, drying and maturing salami
- Lardo: salting, seasoning and curing in marble basins
Lunch: Tasting at Massimo Bacci
Session 3: Salting meat with Fabio & Paolo Nutini
- Pancetta and salted beef demonstrations, maturing in a natural cellar
- Tasting of Nutini products
Dinner
Saturday 21 January
Breakfast
Session 4: Butchering the pig with Gino Bonuccelli
- Cutting into joints
- Boning
- Rifilatura (shaping leg for prosciutto)
- Preparation of joints to make salami and sausages
- Visit maturing rooms
- Tasting of Bonuccelli products
Free time for lunch, shopping and packing for move to the Garfagnana
Transfer to Il Venturo, Pieve Fosciana
Session 5: Review and Q&A session with Giancarlo Russo
- Review of practical sessions and question time
- Where to mature salumi
- Some typical salami recipes
Session 6: Salumi & wine workshop
- The theory and practice of pairing salumi and wines
Dinner at Il Vecchio Mulino, Castelnuovo
A tasting menu at Andrea's parallel gastronomic universe
Sunday 22 January
Breakfast
Session 7: Soppressata (head cheese) & biroldo (blood sausage) with Ismaele Turri at Il Venturo
• Which parts of the pig, cooking, chopping, seasoning, filling skins
Session 8: Visit free-range cross breed pigs
• While the pig simmers, we visit Ismaele's live pigs and stop for elevenses in a mediaeval hilltop village that was once the domain of bandits. Then we return to the workshop to finish the soppressata and biroldo.
Lunch at Il Venturo
Session 9: Do it yourself
• Make your own sausages and salami under the guidance of Ismaele
Farewell dinner at Il Pozzo, Pieve Fosciana
The former leader of Slow Food Garfagnana serves us a meal based on porcini and truffles. Presentation of course certificates.
Monday 23 January
Transfer to Pisa airport or Pisa train station
Only one transfer to airport or station will be provided to suit earliest departure (departure from agriturismo no earlier than 7.00 am to arrive at airport / station at 8.30 am).
Accommodation
Villa Lombardi, Camaiore
A family villa that has been restored preserving its historic features. Maria Grazia Lombardi is the perfect hostess and serves mouthwatering breakfasts.
Agriturismo 'Il Venturo', Pieve Fosciana
A working farm with farm buildings converted to comfortable rustic accommodation (en suite bathrooms). On-site bar and restaurant, swimming pool, stables opposite.
Course Instructor
Course leader
Giancarlo Russo
Giancarlo Russo
Giancarlo designed and leads our Courses with Artisans Advanced Salumi Course. He was Marketing Director for Mars-Nivea and American Express until he bailed out to adopt a slower, more personally rewarding way of life. Since then he has gained a wide range of qualifications and experience in the field of artisanal food:
- Co-author of Slow Food Guide Salumi d'Italia
- October 2009 — Designed and taught Master of Food Salumi for Slow Food Versilia, a 4-part course covering meaning of terms, history, diffusion of pig, how to taste, cuts of pork, classification of products, pig breeds, influence of system of rearing on quality, the skins (natural and synthetic), how pig is prepared, how cuts are made into final products, function of salt and spices, techniques of ageing and conserving, techniques for dealing with less used animals (goose, horse, etc.), description of the principal cured pork products, purchase and conserving salumi at home, how to slice various types of salumi, salumi and wine, salumi in cooking, tasting of quality Italian salumi.
- Lecturer at Universita' Gastronomica di Pollenzo (Slow Food)
- Master Cheese Taster (ONAF-National Organization of Cheese Tasters)
- Levoni Salumi – 25 focused training sessions for groceries related to tasting techniques for cured meat and identification of defects
- Since 2000 Stagionatori d'Arno (Reggello, FI) – Partner and President of the Board. Start-up activity for selection, ageing, refining and selling of high-quality Tuscan artisanal salumi and cheeses
- Leader of Slow Food Casentino
Course instructors
Massimo Bacci
Massimo and his father work together curing pork and running their butcher shop. They make only a few products (sausages, soppressata, three types of mortadella nostrale — not the mortadella you know, but a type of salami — coppa, lingua salmistrata and lardo). No preservatives, colorants or lactose come within miles of their products; their soppressata is beige. They mature their mortadella and coppa in a temperature and humidity controlled room instead of a cellar, but they stay as near as possible to cellar conditions to encourage the mould necessary to proper maturation. Their lardo is cured in marble conche like those used at Colonnata. The Accademia delle 5T (Territory, Tradition, Typical, Traceability, Transparency) nominated their mortadella nostrale for inclusion in the last all-Italy salami competition.
Fabio & Paolo Nutini
Paolo is the latest of 50 generations of Nutini to carry on the butcher's craft. His father Fabio still works with him. They personally select their meat which comes from the Garfagnana immediately to the north of them. They are active in preserving local breeds. They use a drying cupboard and their cellar for maturation. The motto outside their door is: 'Love your butcher because he is the person who chooses for you'.
Ismaele Turri
Ismaele learned his butchering and salumi skills from his father. He still ages his prosciutto and salami in a cellar rather than in a modern purpose-built cabinet. On his farm he rears free-range cross-breed pigs and cultivates the primitive grains farro (Triticum dicoccum) and formenton otto file (eight-row maize). He gets immense pleasure from teaching, which was evident when I went to watch him make salami and ended up with a hands-on lesson.
Course organiser
Heather Jarman
Following her careers as archaeologist, orchestra and artist manager and chef, Heather came to Lucca to pursue her passion for traditional artisan food. Her tours, inspired by her infectious curiosity, open captivating new worlds to her guests.
Prices & What's Included
Price
Per person: €1180 (Euros)
Non-participant in same room: €350 (Euros)
Includes
4 nights welcoming, relaxing accommodation, en suite bathrooms
Local ground transportation for 5 days
Daily continental breakfast, 2 lunches, 4 dinners
Course lectures and sessions with norcini, course notes
Does not include
Airfares
Travel and cancellation insurance
Wine and drinks, other than those served with meals, additional meals
Personal expenses such as telephone, mini-bar, etc.
Meeting points
Pisa airport, Pisa Centrale train station
Recommended international travel
Arrival time: not later than 14.30
Departure time: no earlier than 10.00
Nearest airport: Pisa
Airlines from UK: British Airways, EasyJet, Ryanair
Airlines from USA: You have to fly to another European city and take a connecting flight or train to Pisa Centrale. There are good train connections from Rome.
Nearest train stations: Pisa Centrale
Dress
Informal. Jeans are acceptable everywhere.
Weather in January
2–11˚C/36–52˚F, precipitation 74 mm/2.9
Itinerary is subject to change if necessary due to weather or agricultural conditions or other events outside our control.
What People Say
This course was an amazing insight into the methods and superb skills of the local producers of Tuscany. If you are serious about Italian Salumi techniques, this is the course for you. Giancarlo and Heather are such knowledgeable guides and translators and this adds another dimension to an already action packed tour. It really is amazing value for money in a stunning location, and meeting these producers is the key to knowledge that simply isn't available anywhere else.
3 weeks after end of course:
So far I’m making salsiccia regularly and they are going down a storm. This week I’m doing a roast porchetta and my first prosciutto, and next week we will be attempting our first Tuscan salami so keep the fingers crossed, and I’ll let you know how it turns out.
7 weeks after end of course:
Salamis looking good so far – lovely mould developing not quite matured enough yet but I did try one yesterday and it was quite passable!
8 weeks after end of course:
They are squisito! Two types – first was in the style that Massimo showed us, quite smooth with a fantastic flavour. Second was a more Tuscan style with red wine etc, lovely flavours again, just needs to mature for longer.
Thank you to both you and Giancarlo for a fantastic course. I’ve been on a high ever since. I can honestly say that I enjoyed every bit of the experience, and while it was quite busy with not a lot of free time, I’m so grateful for that, as I learnt so much more and tasted such wonderful food. I would happily recommend the course to others, and can’t wait to get started making more salami now that the weather is cool. Thanks again Heather, for such a great experience, and your enthusiasm, which made the weekend all the more interesting and informative.
I learned so much from the week Curtis and I spent with you. I would certainly call it an excellent beginning, and I’m sure that we will have a much better outcome from our efforts now.
I want to thank you for arranging such a fantastic course. Both Andrew and I have returned to England with a much greater knowledge of salumi. You provided us with a real insight into Tuscan food culture. We thoroughly enjoyed all the extras you arranged; the meal provided by Gabriella and the soup competition were fantastic experiences which we would never have had the opportunity to enjoy as tourists. We look forward to putting all our new found knowledge into practice.
