I'm starting to write this on the 12th day of Christmas, when according to legend the three Wise Kings arrived in Bethlehem bearing gifts for the baby Jesus. My gift to you are twelve artisans who have been an indispensable part of my tours and courses almost since they began. They and their families are  dear to me. I rejoice when a baby is born and when a child decides to follow in its parents’ footsteps. I cry when someone is injured and when elderly relations die.

I don’t purport to be a ‘wise king’, but much of the wisdom I attempt to pass on to you, my valued clients, I have thirstily lapped up from these artisans, who possess the wisdom of a life of doing, a variety of wisdom not taught in academic departments. Some of you have told me I’ve changed your life, of which I’m immensely proud. In fact, the credit is due to these artisans to whom I introduce you today, and to the multitude of others who I will try to bring to you in future blogs.

Massimo has been teaching our Advanced Salumi Course Tuscany since it started in 2010. He follows his grandfather and father as a butcher and norcino (butcher who cures pork). His 95-year-old father still works in the shop. Massimo brags that the only thing they've changed over the years is reducing the amount of salt in their sausages and salami. Even the spice mixture is the same. The secret recipe has been mixed and ground for them at the same drogheria (here spices are called drugs) in Carrara for 100 years. Attention to detail is important. He says that only crazy norcini would take the time to clean all the tendons from the shoulder muscles before chopping them to make sausages and salami.

Since he doesn't have any children of his own, I was overjoyed when his niece decided to join the family business five years ago. Since then they've opened a tiny wine bar where we have our tasting lunch after the workshop. Massimo is a great connoisseur of wine, as well as salumi. He also loves to talk about his philosophy and about tradition. I've learned from him about the strong connection between a product and its environment and that it should be mandatory to visit a place in order to taste its characteristic cuisine. He's the reason why you have to come to my artisans' workshops to learn how to make their products.

Vineyards clothe every hill in Tuscany. You can find hundreds of vineyard visits online and book your own. You don't need me to help you. Yet occasionally a vineyard is special because the owner is special, and I feel compelled to take my guests to experience it. Fattoria di Bacchereto is one of those. I felt Rossella's inner strength as soon as I met her. She has a clear vision of how to allow her vines to yield up their best grapes and how to make wine with respect for her grapes. When she started working with her father, he was farming like his neighbours: lots of inputs of fertilisers, herbicides and pesticides. Rossella had a different idea. She wanted to step back and allow the vines to find their own way to be strong and resilient. For example, she doesn't irrigate or add fertiliser which would encourage the roots to proliferate on the surface. If you don't give them anything, their roots will grow deep and find what they need in the soil. Maybe your yield will be lower, but the expression in your wine of your unique terroir will be stronger. When she took me to the vineyard, I observed her observing the vines as if she were continually trying to understand their personalities, as if they were people she could communicate with.  

In the cellar she has that same perception and understanding of the interactions between the grapes, the must, the natural yeasts, the temperature and the rhythm of winemaking. From Rossella I learn the art of close observation, of allowing the natural world to tell you what goals to set and how to achieve them. We go to Bacchereto on the Tastes & Textiles: Wine to Dye For and the Autumn in Tuscany tours. ​

Francesca has been a friend from even before I started Sapori & Saperi Adventures. She befriended me looking bewildered at an agricultural meeting near her farm just outside Barga. She had abandoned graphic design to buy a run-down farm to try her hand at beekeeping. She renovated the farm buildings to become her house and two apartments and a double bedroom for paying guests. Meanwhile her two donkeys were eating their way through a hillside of brambles to reveal an olive grove which she didn't know she had. Producing olive oil joined the honey and agriturismo (not to mention caring for a young daughter). She has a warm heart and open house. Her friends flock to her place, and I spent many a joyous Christmas and Easter there. And I was with her during her very difficult divorce. I've learned from her how you can be tough while also being warm and hospitable.

Wanting my clients to experience the warmth of Italian hospitality, I took them to learn about bees and mono-floral honey, but especially for pizza parties with her friends, a chance to mix with locals. Now she's a chef. She was at the forefront of a new initiative by Coldiretti, her agricultural association, to teach people with agriturismi how to use their produce more interestingly in their restaurants. The only stand-alone cooking lesson I offer, 'No shopping list, no recipes', is taught by Francesca. If you're looking for an idyllic place to chill out surrounded by exquisite mountain scenery, you can't do better than Francesca's Al Benefizio. (She speaks excellent English but the website is in Italian. Best to phone or send a message on WhatsApp.)

Nadia wasn't one of my original weavers, but a thread links her to those who I began with and have either died or become a nonna, too busy to weave anymore. She seems quiet; even timid; but not a bit of it. She takes new challenges in her stride. In 2000 she took advantage of a free one-year course offered by the comune on traditional Lucchese weaving. It unleashed her creativity, and she continued weaving, figuring out how to get a stand at craft fairs in Florence and Lucca, where I met her in 2019. Her next giant step was to take a permanent shop in Lucca and move her loom in. Despite having to figure out the logistics and bureaucracy and having to meet a monthly rent bill, she's thriving. She can't weave enough of her gorgeous scarves in muted colours to fulfil the passing trade. She taught me that if you have a solid plan and work diligently, you can succeed.

Now we collaborate on a 'Weave your own souvenir' workshop during my Tastes & Textiles: Hanging by a Thread tour. Each participant weaves a square of cloth in a typical Lucchese pattern which she (so far no men) can take home to make into a little bag or glasses or cell phone case.

If you drive along the narrow river valley of the Torrente Pedogna, carefully avoiding the main road to Pescaglia, and turn onto a dirt track just before your road crosses the river, you'll see in front of you an unremarkable stone building. Get out of your car and peer through the door where in the gloom you'll discern a small man crouched over a glowing piece of iron held beneath a hydraulic hammer. This is the blacksmith Carlo Galgani. He's 85 years old, or maybe 86, and has been working in this forge since he learned the craft from his father. The Galgani family have been blacksmiths in this valley for 500 years, as documented in the Lucca archives. The forge is powered entirely by water, channeled off the river up valley. I fit a visit to Carlo into every tour I possibly can: Artisan Bread Course Tuscany and Tastes & Textiles: Hanging by a Thread.

This story brings tears to my eyes. Carlo has three adult children. The sons moved to other parts of Italy, but his daughter stayed in his village and has two sons. As teenagers they helped Carlo during summer holidays, and Nicola decided to continue working with his grandfather. He had learned the necessary skills to make farm implements and household tools, but Carlo worried that he still needed to teach him to repair the antique machinery for which parts are no longer available, not to mention maintaining the water canal and tubing. At this point Nicola came to the sad conclusion that he couldn't earn enough money working with his grandfather. Carlo owns his house and forge outright; he has a Fiat Panda which never wears out; he doesn't want a cell phone and anyway there's no signal at the forge; he cooks his own lunch on the forge fire. Nicola, on the other hand, is a young man and needs money for a house, car, phone, evening out with his friends. Two men working with their hands simply can't produce enough at a price the locals are willing to pay to fund even a modest modern lifestyle.

I keep trying to learn from Carlo the patient fatalism of the many elderly people I know. Sometimes you have to accept that a way of life which has sustained craftspeople for 500 years will die.

In this stall and this rudimentary dairy at the end of a dirt road, Enea Giunti lives quietly off the grid, with his wife Valeria, as a goatherd, cheesemaker, cereal farmer and baker, never deviating from his principles of self-sufficiency. He has been one of the teachers on our Theory & Practice of Italian Cheese course since it began in 2015, but not always. His trust in nature to guide the timing of his activities means sometimes in April, when I run the course, he doesn't have any milk because his goats didn't kid in time. Or it's too cold in his unheated dairy for the lactic coagulation of his French-style goat cheeses. But when we do visit him, he impresses the course participants with the ease with which he makes what is regarded as a difficult category of cheese. Which starter cultures does he use, professional cheesemakers ask. The ones on his skin and in the air in the dairy. They've been his friends for many years, and he doesn't need to import strangers. His favourite times of day are early morning and evening when he goes out to pasture with his goats, never with his cell phone.

I've learned from Enea that if you work with nature instead of against it, you can produce a small quantity of a fine product with less effort. I've tasted a lot of chèvre made by other diaries small and large, and his stands out for its texture and complexity of flavour.

If you want a real-life example of carpe diem, Paolo is it. He makes the Slow Food Presidium Potato Bread of the Garfagnana; he's a farro and potato farmer; he hulls farro for himself and other farmers; and he's a cattle farmer. The first and third of those resulted from crises. His mother was the village baker. She got cancer at an early age, and on her death bed she confessed to Paolo how sad she felt that her bread would no longer be made in her village. How can an Italian boy resist a plea from a mother? Even though he was already a full-time farro and cattle farmer, he promised her he would carry on making her bread according to her recipe, with her sourdough starter and baked in a wood-fired oven. True to his promise, he's still at it. He was instrumental in registering it as a Slow Food Presidium. He now delivers to shops and restaurants down the Serchio River Valley to Lucca and beyond without ever making an effort to sell it to new customers.

Crisis number 2. Farro is a primitive wheat. Unlike modern varieties of wheat, it's not free threshing, which means the grain doesn't come out of its hull without a special process. It used to be done by millers who covered their millstones with cork and squeezed the seeds out of their hulls without damaging the grain, after which the chaff was winnowed from the grain which could then be ground into flour or cooked whole like rice and pearled barley. One night Paolo's miller died of a heart attack. In the next few days while standing in the car park of his village desperately cranking a small stone mill to hull his farro, he realised that rice farmers have the same problem. After a quick phone call to Zanotti, a manufacturer of rice polishing machines, a trip to their factory in Piedmont to test a sack of farro, a small grant and a large bank loan, Paolo was the proud owner of a farro hulling and polishing machine. He notified all the farmers around him that he could now process their farro. Like his bread, knowledge of the service spread by word of mouth. He paid off his loan and now his two sons, who tried university only to discover they were farmers at heart, are now running that part of the business.

I've been taking clients to Paolo since I started Sapori & Saperi Adventures in 2005 and he is, of course, one of the teachers on our Artisan Bread Course Tuscany. I've learned many things from Paolo. He's a model of how to maintain a good life-work balance, while probably never realising that he's doing it. But above all, when you lose a key element in your life, you can view it as an opportunity and go for it.

Daniela and her husband Valter are cattle farmers. They farm on the upper slopes of the Montagna Pistoiese, part of the Apennine mountains. I discovered Daniela several years ago from the wrapper on her butter which I bought down in the valley near Lucca. It was actually a ricotta wrapper, so I knew she made cheese, because you can only make ricotta after you've made cheese. I also figured she was a small cheesemaker; if she had been a big dairy, the butter would have been wrapped in the correct label. I went to meet her and was impressed by her calm demeanour despite the pressures of the animals, the dairy, an agriturismo and a young family.

She started herding sheep when she was 9 years old and was the head cheesemaker on her father's farm by the time she was 12. When she married Valter, she moved to his cattle farm across the Lima Valley and transferred her cheesemaking knowledge to cow's milk. She has a small modern dairy and produces enough cheese, ricotta, yoghurt and butter to send to shops and restaurants as far away as Pistoia and Lucca. She took advantage of courses given by a highly respected cheese consultant from the Alps and modified her cheesemaking processes accordingly. Her range of cheeses are excellent. But what I admire most about her is the ability to mix modernity and tradition. The family still practise transhumance, walking their cows from their winter stable up to summer alpine pastures.  Daniela cuts the curd and ladles it into moulds by hand. She decides by eye rather than a pH meter when it had drained enough and is ready for salting. She is one of the cheesemakers who teaches our Theory & Practice of Italian Cheese.

In 2012 when she was snowed in, a friend from the city made her way to the farm and helped her write her autobiography, entitled Come le Stagioni (Like the Seasons). Her life reminds me that living in the countryside and caring for your family and your animals, whatever the seasons may bring, can fill you with love, purpose and joy.

Marzia still makes cheese in one pot over a burner in the minuscule dairy where she learned from  her mother-in-law. She's the most traditional of my cheesemakers and has been teaching the Theory & Practice of Italian Cheese course since it began in 2014. I imagine that her family, her house, her farm are pretty much the same as small Tuscan farms have been for the last century. The stone house is in one of those picturesque mediaeval mountain-top villages. It has been added to and divided up according to the exigencies of the families living in it. Like the house, the family land has been added to and divided up and is dispersed inside and outside the village. The stalls are below the village, so milk has to be brought up in the jeep. Every member of the family has his or her role whether milking or making cheese, or ploughing and planting potatoes and beans, or tending the bees and extracting honey from the hives, or harvesting chestnuts and carefully drying them for grinding into flour. Roberto, Marzia's husband, travels to farmers' markets to sell their produce. They work hard and they're not rich in financial terms, but they're comfortably off with time to be together, and I sense the richness of the love and respect they feel for each other. The happiness that radiates from Marzia's face comes from being satisfied with what she has and not wishing she could live someone else's life.

The Rocchi’s are the first norcini I met when I started my company and were the inspiration for our Advanced Salumi Course Tuscany. When I first met them in 2005, Gino had just come back to the family business after university and a miserable stint working in a bank. He told me to come early on Tuesday morning, the day when he, his father Severino and his uncle Ubaldo did the week's salumi production. I was fascinated by how the sausages, salami, soppressata and biroldo were made, but what struck me even more was how well they worked as a team. Although they joked and laughed as they worked, each man knew his role and did it without even speaking to the others. Gino disappeared and came back with the natural casings from the cellar. Severino headed to the prep room to get the freshly ground spices. Ubaldo opened the cauldron to check whether the boiling heads were soft enough yet. I suppose after four generations, they had the procedure down pat.

But now everything has changed. In the last four years the natural cellar in which they matured their salumi has become hotter and hotter, first in August, then July and August and now often in June and September and even October. There are now not enough cool months in a year to produce enough salumi to last through the hot months, and nowhere to put the salumi when the cellar is too hot. They had to make a difficult decision. Either abandon the natural cellar which had worked for their ancestors, or close. Gino decided to invest in a temperature- and humidity-controlled cabinet. It took a while to get the hang of it. Before this everything was done by feel and experience; now instead of nature deciding, Gino had to set the temperature and humidity day by day. I worried, what if he guessed wrongly? It was a big investment and they needed to produce enough to pay for it. I also hated the idea of abandoning the traditional method for a new one that requires loads of energy. I'm glad the transition has worked for them. And I've learned from the pragmatism of these artisans that sometimes you have to evolve, and if you don't, you'll go extinct.

 Mirko is the only teacher on our Art & Science of Gelato course. Usually I have at least two and often five different teachers to show you different minds and different hands, but there is no one else who understands gelato and the business of running a gelateria as well as Mirko. Although he's a risk-taker, which takes guts, he's kind and soft-hearted, too, a combination rarely found in the same person. When he lost his logistics job in the 2008 economic crisis, he had to find something else to do. He asked himself what he liked best when he was a child: pizza and gelato! He chose gelato only because it has a longer shelf life. But his idea of gelato was one made with natural ingredients, made with knowledge and an artisan's experience. He took gelato courses and found out how to buy a sack of premix, put it in the batch freezer and push a button. He had to do something more daring to realise his dream of making natural gelato. He bought a camper van, packed up the family and toured Italy in search of the grandfathers of gelato, the ones who had never heard of premix or even scales, who did everything by eye and dipped a finger in the mix to test whether it was correct. To learn this method takes years of apprenticeship, and Mirko didn't have years. He came across a man who had figured out what it was that the grandfathers were testing with their fingers and how to codify it. With a few important tweaks and lots of practice on the job, Mirko has refined this scientific side of gelato and now concentrates on inventing new flavours, the art of gelato, and growing his business.

Many people go through life dissatisfied with their work but have no idea of what they would like to do. Maybe they should look to their childhoods and ask themselves what did they enjoy most before they were railroaded onto the conveyor belt of 'respectable' careers. I've learned that to make a living with a traditional product in the world of today, marketing is nearly as important as the product. One thing I'm not sure about, and I watch, sometimes with dismay and sometimes joy, as Mirko takes another risk. In the back of my mind I wonder whether it's possible to keep expanding and still stick to his principles. I hope I'll find out that it is.

Ismaele has been one of the norcini teaching our Advanced Salumi Course Tuscany since its birth in 2010. No, I lie. Two weeks before that one he informed me that he would be walking the Camino di Santiago de Compostela, but all would be OK with his substitutes. He has never been missing since. Like all skilled craftspeople his materials are one with his body and mind. Breaking down a pig has never looked so elegant and easy. He's not worried about climate change. He has an instinct for suitable natural places to mature his salumi. He's equally at home making bread; restoring the buildings on his agriturismo; cutting wood for hot water, heating and his several wood-fired ovens in his three restaurants; rearing pigs, cattle, sheep, donkeys and hens; cultivating farro and formenton otto file (8-row corn), driving his vintage Fiat 500, making wine and vinegar. He once tried cheesemaking, but decided he didn't have time. He avoids mechanisation. He uses a small electric meat grinder, but his sausage and salami stuffer is hand-cranked. He is kind and tolerant of staff who, of course, can't compare to him. I was distraught when his marriage fell apart and glad that he and his ex-wife have remained together on the farm and in the business. I was overjoyed when his five children came into the business and when he sent me a message about the birth of his first grandchild.

So many things I've learned from Ismaele. One is diversify, diversify if you want to survive in the agricultural sector. Another is to treat your colleagues and clients with kindness and fairness and they will reward you in return. There is no such thing as competition. We're all in this together, and if we all pull in the same direction, we have a chance of arriving at our goals.

What qualities have I discovered that are present in these several artisans?

• First and foremost, each one has a vision, not just of where he or she wants to go, but of correct behaviour toward other people and toward the natural world.
• They seek to get the best from the raw materials to hand.
• They are stubborn. They stick to the truth as they see it.
• They see opportunities even in the midst of despair and are brave enough to seize them.
• In their hearts they are kind and gentle. Other people feel good in their presence.
• They are happy. Not always. There are events in life that will make you grieve. But I discern a deep love of life that is too often missing in others.

I end with the words of Daniela Pagliai:

The other day in Lucca a couple of women stopped me and asked: ‘Doe-vay an-fee-tay-atro squa-ray?’ I got ‘Where is amphitheatre’, but I couldn’t figure out ‘squa-ray’. I knew they weren’t Italian, but I didn’t think they were native English speakers either, so I didn’t revert to English. I asked them in Italian to repeat their question. Exactly the same. Hmmm. Eventually it dawned on me that they thought ‘square’ was an Italian word, and having boned up on Italian pronunciation before coming on their holiday (good on them!), they were doing their best to pronounce it properly. Unfortunately, ‘square’ isn’t Italian. We say ‘piazza’ (pee-atz-a). It comes from the Latin ‘platea’ meaning wide. Treccani (widely accepted as the best Italian dictionary) defines it as:

In the city of Lucca you will find many beautiful examples of piazzas fulfilling all these functions.

‘Square’ really doesn’t quite do it.

So why do English-language guides to Italy translate ‘piazza’ as ‘square’? Because they don’t realise that we know perfectly well what ‘piazza’ means. The same with ‘gelato’. They don’t know that there are gelaterias in London (and lots of other places). Even if you aren’t aware that gelato is a different frozen dessert from ice cream, you at least have some idea of what you’ll get at a gelateria. If you’re curious about the differences, here’s a great article: https://londonist.com/london/food/best-gelato-ice-cream-gelateria-shops-london

So if you’re in Italy, why not take the opportunity to practise the Italian you already know? You came all this way, and since you’re a ‘slow traveller’, you want to immerse yourself in the culture. Why not listen to what the natives around you are saying? Don’t assume you won’t understand. If you know a little Spanish or French, Italian isn’t a million miles away. If you’re travelling with other English speakers, make a game of it. Always use the Italian words you already know, and try to learn one or two new ones every day.

If you’re worried about mispronouncing the words, stop fretting. Italians love it when people try to speak their language, and they’re so intuitive they’ll figure it out no matter how mangled it is. And think how good you’ll feel when they beam and give you want you asked for. By the way, don’t worry if they then babble on in Italian. They love to talk, even if the listener doesn’t understand a thing.

If all else fails, try hand gestures.

Need a more detailed and humorous lesson? Here's Marco in a Box: https://youtu.be/_8hAOxsTpVY

If you’re not convinced, and you’re still going to say ‘square’ and ‘ice cream’, then I hope you’re going to call the dish in the photo above ‘small strings with bacon and eggs’ because ‘spago’ means ‘string’ and ‘-etti’ is a diminutive suffix.

Grazie (pronounced gratz-ee-ay) for reading!

I wrote this blog in 2019 for the Slow Travel Tours website, and I'm still wondering why my guests say 'square'.

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During our Artisan Bread Course Tuscany we make one bread with no salt. There's a myth floating around the internet that bread won't rise without salt. If you've ever been to Florence and eaten their saltless bread, you know it can't be true. But we decided to test it in the lab with our master baker Stefano Gatti. You can see the excellent results in the photo above.

But in the past did a woman living in Lucca Province add salt to her bread? Lucca was never part of the Florentine Republic. With a couple of short exceptions, it was only in 1799 that it fell prey to foreign powers. In 1859 it finally became part of Tuscany. We have our own customs, and one of those is to add salt to bread. I quizzed Eugenia who owns our village shop. When she was little, she used to climb up on a stool and watch her mother kneading the dough in the madia. She couldn't remember about the salt. At that point in my investigations her sister-in-law, who is in her late 80s, walked in. Yes, everyone added salt. No doubt at all. They knew that Florentine bread was sciocco (saltless). Totally different from their own, which needless to say, is much better. 

The absence of lievito madre (sourdough starter) in bread made at home has also been a puzzlement to me. Every mamma who I've made bread with has used fresh cake yeast. Finally I found out. Eugenia, now in her 70s, remembers every evening standing on that stool watching her mother refresh her lievito madre. Proof at last that the tradition has been lost, at least around me, in the recent past. I'm happy to report that there's much greater interest recently in bread made with ancient grains, wholemeal flour and lievito madre.

In case you're wondering, like I did, where the salty myth came from, Stefano had the answer. Although salt kills some of the yeast, chemically it creates a stronger gluten matrix which in turn is able to hold more of the carbon dioxide produced by the remaining yeast. So, if you don't add salt, the dough still rises, but will be closer grained. Another baker who teaches our course told us that by law he is only allowed to add up to 1.2% salt to his bread, but that's enough to keep it from being sciocco​ and to keep us distinct from the Florentines.

Other blogs about Sardinia: Cross-Dressing in Sardinia, Sardinia and its Giants

First a note from us:

Rhonda had travelled around Italy before joining the course, which began in Hotel Park Regina, Bagni di Lucca. ​

​Sourdough bread making today with Chef Damiano at Fattoria Sardi. We were also treated to lunch there. We go back tomorrow to bake the bread and another lunch. Oh my goodness...all around excellent.

A highlight today is a visit with Carlo. He’s 85 years old. His family has been blacksmithing for over 500 years. Sadly, no one is coming up behind him. This place is fascinating! It is run completely on water power. Such a skilled master artisan. We were all mesmerized.

​Today we worked with Chef Damiano again and got our bread baked from yesterday. We then had a tour of Fattoria Sardi vineyards and wine areas. We learned to make our own sourdough starter. Then another fabulous lunch. After that we visited a farmer who grows ancient varieties of wheat. A brief rest at the hotel then out to dinner for pizza and a beer.

We learned to make these yeasted flat breads [Ed.—fogaccia leva di Gallicano] yesterday. These are made on traditional flat iron sort of griddles. Some call the pan testi but there are other names [Ed.—cotte in Gallicano] depending on the village tradition. Our hosts have been best friends since birth. What a duo! The ensuing lunch with this traditional food was really good. It is served with a local bean and sausage ‘soup’ [Ed.—fagioli all'uccelletto, a traditional Tuscan bean stew]. Then they taught us a version made with chestnut flour [Ed.—necci] and rolled around fresh ricotta. After this, we went to another village to learn the same technique for one with no yeast or rise, a mix of flour and cornmeal [Ed.—criscioletta of Cascio], with strips of pancetta cooked into it. Needless to say no one was hungry for dinner.

A flour mill that is still driven by water. Note that the water wheels are horizontal. They made the flours for our flatbread class.

Then on to more beautiful places.

Rhonda was unable to take part in the final day of the Artisan Bread Course Tuscany. If she had she would have learned about the Slow Food Presidium Garfagnana potato bread with Paolo Magazzini. With a visit to Paolo's farro polishing machine and free range beef cattle during gaps in bread making. Topped off with a lunch cooked by Paolo's wife!

This was all part of the Artisan Bread Course Tuscany, which will be taking place again from 11–16 February. It used to be in July, but it's too hot now to do anything, much less bake bread. Find out more here. 
​
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'The Bandits of Sillico in the Garfagnana of Ariosto ...at dinner time'. The translation into English of the title of this historical and gastronomic festival leaves most of the story untold. As you'll see below, the real joy is in the way this tiny mediaeval village works together to present a spectacular meal and show. But you'll need a bit of local history to get into the spirit.

​In the 1400s the Garfagnana (the mountainous region north of Lucca) wanted to free itself from the tyranny of the Republic of Lucca and asked for help from the Este family, the Dukes of Ferrara. The Dukes obliged and installed a governor at the region's capital, Castelnuovo di Garfagnana. In 1522 they sent the poet Ludovico Ariosto to fill the post. He hated all three and a half years he spent there, especially his dealings with the local brigands whose chief was Moro of Sillico. When Ariosto arrived, they essentially ruled the Garfagnana. Being a poet, he wrote many letters to the Duke complaining about their activities and asking for more troops, and through his descriptions we have a lot of detail about the brigands.

To this day Castelnuovo vaunts its noble governor while Sillico brags about how Moro outwitted him. 

I know the back route to the upper gate where the queue is shorter. The entertainers are arriving too.

Here's Giulio, director of the Sbandieratori and teacher of our fogaccia di Gallicano lessons, another tradition he's helping to preserve.

Let me quickly brag a bit on Giulio's behalf. His troop has performed throughout Europe and is known for its fast, explosive and unpredictable style. It has won the national championships more often than any other group. Bravi!

 8.00 pm—Opening of the gates
 9.00 pm —Historical procession
 9.30 pm—Dance of the courtly damsels
10.00 pm—Play "Ariosto arrives in the Garfagnana" (spoiler, Moro wins the poetry competition improvising in ottava rima)
10.30 pm—Sbandieratori di Gallicano
11.00 pm— Show "The Muses of the Devil" (wish I had the stamina to have stayed for this)

Now we climb the steep cobbled streets to arrive at the terrace where the main course is served.

This is Nadia. Her husband Bruno lights three metati (chestnut-drying huts) every October and I often take my salumi course participants to see how much work goes into producing the naturally sweet chestnut flour of the Garfagnana. Festivals are good places to meet old friends.

The quickest route to the piazza where the shows take place is through Palazzo Carli where we are catapulted from the 16th century into the 20th.

We come out of the palazzo to a spectacular show in the piazza in front of the house where Moro was born.

We climb to the top of the village to arrive at the fourth banquet: dessert.

I'll leave you with the sound of the bagpipers.

Thank you to Klaus Falbe-Hansen for supplying most of the photos in this blog and to him, his wife and their friend for accompanying me for this thoroughly enjoyable evening.

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This year marked the 150th anniversary of the Carnival at Viareggio and Erica was there taking it all in…and of course taking some photographs too.

​The Carnival has been taking place since 1873 and involves many highly decorated papier-mâché floats and masquerades traveling in a procession down the ‘passeggiata’, or promenade along the seafront in Viareggio.

​It sounds like fun and games, but it’s a serious business. The floats take part in four ‘classes’ and creators can move up and down classes depending on how many points they are awarded for their creations. Moving up or down a class can make or break the designers. The four classes dictate the size and budget of the float and the order in which they travel.

​As you can see from the photos, the floats are huge and take months and months to build.

There are of course many light-hearted and fun floats, and this year some celebrated the 150th anniversary.

However, they are often allegorical, and this year touched on the war in Ukraine. A huge gorilla adorned with military medals entitled 'The Evolution of the Species' represented war and misery. 

There was a stark juxtaposition between the jolly celebrations of the anniversary and heavy anguish about the future of the human race. The photo above shows ‘Armed Peace’ by Alessandro Avanzini – a young girl wearing a helmet and gas mask. Her coat opens out into a flag of peace, symbolising the hope for peace.

The final day of the Carnival (February 25) will also take on a political note with an 'Orangemob' - orange fireworks in protest against gender based violence. The announcement of the winning float follows! 

It is always a spectacular event. If you would like to read more about Carnival take a look at this previous blog post.

Carnival traditionally ends on 'Fat Tuesday' or Martedì Grasso, if you'd like to read more about that, check out this previous blog post. 

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We hope you enjoyed our round-up of 2022. Perhaps it whetted your appetite for our tours and courses and you're thinking of joining us this year? We are already looking forward to meeting you! But first, let’s take a look at what’s in store in 2023…

​Our salumi courses are always the first of the year – winter is the best time to make salumi of course! Many of our artisans use traditional methods to air dry their products, so cool weather is a must.  If Prosciutto di Parma is your thing, you could take our last space on the Advanced Salumi Course Bologna-Parma in February. This course also teaches Mortadella di Bologna as well as some niche products – nose to tail at its best. This will be the only time this course runs in 2023, the 2024 date is still to be announced.  

The Mozzarella & its Cousins course is a professional development course teaching cheesemakers how to make pasta filata cheeses – mozzarella, scamorza and burrata (just reading it makes your mouth water, right?). For those of you who don’t happen to have buffalo milk at hand, we also take a look at the differences when using cow’s milk. This course will run in March, and there are still a couple of spaces left. It might run again in July and October, so please get in touch if you can't come in March.

​Create your own flavours, use professional machinery and get into the nitty gritty of sugar and fat content and how that translates into the perfect scoop during the Art & Science of Gelato course. Mirko Tognetti runs one of the top gelaterias in Italy and is passionate about natural gelato and sharing his knowledge. He also shares his insights into the business side of things. This course has availability in March, August and October. In October we also learn how to make panettone with a sourdough starter.

​Join us in April on this professional development course which gives artisan cheesemakers the chance to expand their knowledge through working with five Tuscan cheesemakers. The Theory & Practice of Italian Cheese course teaches various cheeses including lactic-coagulated goat’s milk cheese, rennet-coagulated cow, sheep and goat cheese and ricotta.

​The two-day extension introduces you Parmigiano Reggiano cheese at Caseificio Santa Rita Bio in Modena Province. They make parmigiano from the milk of the indigenous white Modenese cow. At the dairy we have the invaluable opportunity to see the whole process from milk to brining with all questions answered. And a tasting of their spectacular parmigiano of several ages from one year up to ten years.

This wonderful tour is always popular and is fully booked for 2023, but there are places left for the April 2024 tour. During the Celebrating Sardinia tour our guests arrive during the Sardinian feast for their patron Saint Antioco and are thrown into the island’s colourful food and culture during  two days of street parties. After the party there are many more interesting things to discover – pecorino cheese, salt pans and a day on a fishing boat to name but a few. 

​During this tour in the picturesque borders of Tuscany, Umbria and Le Marche (a dream landscape!) you have the chance to dye with woad, block print with rust, visit the makers of Casentino wool and cook local specialities. The Tastes & Textiles: Woad & Wool tour allows guests to delve into living traditions and meet the makers who have been creating these very special crafts for generations. This tour will take place in May, and there are still some spaces available. 

​Join us in June as we visit the last of the textile artisans using methods handed down through generations. Tastes & Textiles: Hanging by a Thread 2023 also includes a new activity – making sandals with a luxury-market shoemaker. It goes without saying, there will be delicious food too, and various cooking lessons from our artisans who invite you into their homes. 

​Real. Bread. Need we say more? Okay, maybe a little more then. Five artisan bakers share their knowledge through hands-on classes during the Artisan Bread Course Tuscany. Think sourdough, focaccia, pizza, heritage grains, wood-fired ovens and the very special Garfagnana potato bread. Travel back home inspired. This course will run in July.

​August sees us hop aboard a time machine for a journey into Tuscany’s past. A few of the highlights of the Tuscan Heritage tour are hunting for truffles with an Etruscan dog, feasting on Palaeolithic beef and 14th-century pork, gazing at the countryside from a 16th-century fortress and tasting Chianti Classico wine from 17th-century terraces. Divine!

This popular tour is full for September 2023, and we're now taking bookings for September 2024. During the Tastes & Textiles: Wine to Dye For tour we visit Pistoia and Pescia and try our hand at weaving baskets with marsh reeds, making watermarked paper and using wine as a mordant to dye leather and fabric. 

​This 5-night Tastes & Textiles: Sea Silk in Sardinia tour takes us in search of the truth about byssus, or sea silk. The dark brown beard of the giant mollusc Pinna nobilis shimmers like gold thread when cleaned, treated with lemon juice and viewed in bright light. We visit the last remaining byssus weavers – a special experience. 

​Off to Sardinia once more in October for the fully booked Giants of Sardinia tour. In 2024 this tour will run from September 28 – 5 October and is available to book. This tour encompasses  Bronze Age stone giants as well as the giants of Sardinian cuisine – what a combination!

The delightful Autumn in Tuscany tour is fully booked for 2023, but available to book for November 2024. The sweet smell of roasting chestnuts, wood fires, new olive oil, truffles and new wine in the cellar. An indulgent dive into the traditions of the area and a culture seen through the eyes of local artisans. A season to remember. 

​Just as the year begins with salumi, so it will end. In November we will once again visit the artisan norcini of Tuscany during the Advanced Salumi Course Tuscany. We glean their knowledge of making sausages, salami, Lardo di Collonnata IGP, pancetta, prosciutto and sopressata as well as many other delectable items. It’s a practical course and you can come armed with your notepad and camera to return home ready to make these products yourself, or vastly improve on what you currently make. 

If you’re feeling inspired to join any of our tours and courses in 2023, or indeed to book a place in 2024 for some of this year's fully booked tours please get in touch with Erica. Find out all you need to know about each tour and course on the website. Our Facebook and Instagram pages will keep you updated with current tours and give you an insight into what to expect when you join us. We hope to see you soon!

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I admit I got a bit obsessed with the numbers. And I'm surprised by the results.

Total number of Advanced Salumi Courses
Tuscany: 48 since launch in November 2010
Bologna-Parma: 7 since launch in January 2017

Total number of participants
Tuscany: 246
Bologna-Parma: 27

Pretty impressive, but what really surprised me were the number of nationalities represented by the participants. 

Thirty-seven countries! You'll notice a little cheating: the four 'kingdoms' of the United Kingdom are tallied separately, but I was curious about how many people came from each. Now I wonder: have we contributed positively to international relations?

Returning to the question in the title: how many salamis? I don't have a record of how many salamis our participants have made over the years. Hundreds? Thousands?

So, is the market completely saturated? Or is this just the lull in the eye of the storm? Are bookings for February 2023 in Bologna and Parma and March in Tuscany about to come flooding in? These are questions for you, my readers. 

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Some other salumi blogs from the early days of the course you might be interested in:
Moments of Glory
​From Pig to Salumi
Salumi Course in Tuscany
February—Learning the Art of Prosciutto in Emilia

​The first course of the year still had an air of Covid around but regular testing meant we could carry on as normal. We visited Massimo Bacci and enjoyed the delicious Lardo di Colonnata by Fausto Guadagni. 

Illness in the family of one of our artisans led to a last minute change…bread baking! After 18 years in Italy, Erica has learned the Italian art of improvisation. A quick phone call and we were off to Paolo Magazzini to learn how to make Slow Food Presidium Garfagnana potato bread in a wood-fired oven. 

​The last artisan of the course never disappoints. Here’s Gino Rocchi air drying some pancetta outside his incredibly scenic Salumificio. During a visit to Gino we see the whole production run. It's a wonderful experience.  

Annabel loves crafts, so we took her and her mother to the Museo della Carta (Paper Museum, Pescia) for a watermarked paper workshop. She caught on so quickly, that they offered her an apprenticeship. Too bad she had to go back to school in the States.

​February also brought with it the Mozzarella & its Cousins course. We had rethought the course, deciding it was too complicated, even for experienced cheesemakers, to learn both mozzarella traditions in Campania. We reluctantly abandoned the excellent dairy in Caserta and added a new one in Salerno Province. We were a bit jittery at first, but Tenuta Chirico turned out to be a joy to work with. We got to make our own pot of mozzarella. The best learning experience possible.

We enjoyed meeting ​Rodolfo (pictured centre), whose dad and uncle were both cheesemakers. He thought he wanted to learn something different. However, summers spent in dairies inspired a love for cheesemaking and he’s now the head cheesemaker at Chirico. He’s a great teacher too…lucky for us!

Of course the Art & Science of Gelato course saw us pay a visit to Mirko Tognetti, owner of Cremeria Opera in Lucca. Gary Mihalik was already an experienced gelato maker, but he wanted to do a private course with Mirko to find out what he didn't know. There was fast and furious conversation in the classroom and the lab!

​Gary also got to try out the Cattabriga EFFE 6 – a vertical batch freezer, something he'd always wanted to do. Dreams really do come true…

​Another month, another Advanced Salumi Course Tuscany. Here we are at Agriturismo Venturo preparing the filling for salami. Ismaele Turri teaches on this part of the course—butchering the pig, the Modena cut, shaping the prosciutto and spalla, pancetta, salting whole pieces.

​And the women on the course saluting all women on International Women’s Day under the flag of peace.

​Peace was also on the minds of the locals in Erica’s village of Casabasciana. They gathered together to enjoy a dinner to raise money for Ukrainian refugees. They raised €600 to put towards helping refugees living in Bagni di Lucca. Bravi!

There was a special half-day Art & Science of Gelato course in April, with one of our guests Barbara creating a genius flavour! Peanut butter, chocolate and meringue. So good it was on sale in Cremeria Opera.

​Then, after a two year break we were back in Sardinia! Our group received a very warm welcome from Roberta and Aurora at the Gallo Bianco, Erica's favourite hotel in Cagliari.

A very welcome first toast of the tour. It was good to be back!

​Even Erica can find something new to enjoy on the tours. During the Celebrating Sardinia tour she noticed something she’d never taken in before. She has watched the decorated oxen yoked together pulling the traccas during the Sagra of Sant'Antioco several times. Yet she never noticed that the yoke isn't the usual type that rests on the beasts' necks. Instead it links their horns. Our guide at the Museo Etnografico told us that this type of yoke exists only in Sardinia (ruled by Spain for four centuries), Spain and a few other countries which were also under Spanish rule. Where did it come from? There's a Nuragic bronze statuette from around 800 BC of exactly the same yoke. Perhaps it originated right here in Sardinia.

​The Tastes & Textiles: Woad & Wool tour followed Celebrating Sardinia. First we had a two-day workshop doing natural dyeing. First up, calendula. We heard about its many health benefits and also learned how to use the pigment from the petals as a dye. 

A Woad & Wood tour had to include woad. Woad was the blue dye before cheaper and easier-to-use indigo replaced it.

We have to show you at least one of the beautiful silk squares we created.

We enjoyed learning how to print with rust dye from Emanuele Francione. He uses hand-carved wooden blocks he inherited from his grandfather.

Not to forget that many wild plants are good to eat as well as dye with. We couldn't get enough of this tart made by our hostess, Federica Crocetta.

On the final day of this whirlwind month Erica welcomed her group at the first meal of the Tastes & Textiles: Wine to Dye For tour. She was in for a surprise. During Covid when tables had to be spaced out, Baldo Vino had decided to open a new osteria for the traditional cuisine and go 'cheffy' at the original restaurant Erica knew so well. Everything was well-cooked and delicious. But of course now Erica wants to go back to try the new place serving the old food! Review pending...

The food on tours is always divine and in June it was no different. There were lots of special meals on the Wine To Dye For tour. Dinner with a view at Da Delfina (Artimino), an elegant seafood dinner at Corradossi (Pistoia), lunch prepared by our olive oil expert at Villa Magia (Quarrata), dinner in a garden at Agriristorante Cocò (Lamporecchio) and a mega-steak at Rafanelli (Pistoia).

The centrepiece of the tour is our two-day workshop with Tommaso Cecchi de' Rossi. Each person makes a handbag designed by Tommaso using leather and cloth they dye themselves. They think of a colour, and Tommaso helps them mix the dye, using wine as the basis. If you want to see how they came out, keep reading. We took some special photos on our repeat tour in September.

Some of our guests had chosen to go straight on to Sardinia for our 5-day Tastes & Textiles: Sea Silk in Sardinia tour.

The favourite day is always the workshop with Arianna Pintus, learning about bissus, a fine fibre from the beard of a mollusc, surrounded in mystery and myth. Arianna also leads us in a creative weaving workshop.

July was all about bread on our brand new Artisan Bread Course Tuscany. A glorious week working with five very different bakers. The first baker we met is Stefano Bechelli (pictured) who runs a family bakery called Pane del Gonzo. He makes his bread pretty much single handedly with the use of modern technology. His flour comes from Tuscany. 

Next up was Damiano Donati a talented chef who taught all there is to know about sourdough bread. Of course a lunch prepared by the man himself couldn't be passed up.

Erica scours remote mountains and valleys for unique products for her courses. Crisciolette are found only at the village of Cascio in the Garfagnana. Alessandro Bertolini and his team taught us to make this tasty wheat flour and cornmeal griddle bread, flavoured with pancetta or wrapped around cheese. Another dream came true on this day. Dana wanted to go up to the top of the bell tower. Alessandro just happened to have the key...

The obligatory 'look what we made' photo featuring delicious Garfagnana potato bread which was baked in the wood-fired oven of ​Paolo Magazzini.

July also brought the launch of the new standalone sourdough panettone course. It's run by a familiar face, Mirko Tognetti, who teaches our gelato courses. Three chefs from India were the first to take the course. 

It's a very technical course but Mirko makes it seem easy, and our participants were delighted with their finished panettone!

By popular demand we also launched a short sourdough pizza course with Neapolitan pizzaiolo Onorato Salvatore at his Pizzeria MaryFrank in Lucca. You can take it as a two-day stand-alone or add one or two days with Onorato onto any of our other courses. ​

As you can tell from this blog, Erica has been so busy running courses and tours, she hasn't had time to put the course on our website. Subito! which should mean soon, but as used by Italian plumbers, means maybe sometime later this month—or next.

We kicked August off with an Art & Science of Gelato course. Day 5 is when our students get to create their own flavours. Arjun chose Kesar Badham, a popular milk, almond and saffron drink in his home country of India. Sublime!

Sometimes one day in a tour isn't quite perfect. Erica managed to squeeze in a research trip to fix it. It was on the Wine to Dye For tour. Naturally we had to taste wine as well as dyeing with it. The morning had started perfectly in the vineyards and tasting room of Fattoria di Bacchereto. The weakness was the time machine in the afternoon that didn't quite make it back to the Etruscan period and, although the view from the restaurant was magnificent, the cooking had become a bit pedestrian now that mamma had retired from the kitchen. 

The Tumulus of Montifortini vividly displays the impressive building skills of the Etruscans. Time machine reset. And at the Osteria dei Mercanti in Carignano, she found mamma still in the kitchen. Day solved.

We welcomed our first students from Puerto Rico on the Art & Science of Gelato course in mid-August. Naturally they had to make Piña Colada gelato. Yum!

We were delighted to have some of our students from previous courses come back for the Theory & Practice of Italian Cheese course in the Garfagnana.

Parmigiano is produced just over the Apennine Mountains from the Garfagnana and several participants took advantage of the short hop over there to see how they do it. 

Another wonderful Tastes & Textiles: Wine to Dye for tour took place in September. Our tours are based in the countryside, but we couldn't miss out the Lisio Foundation in Florence, where we see their artisans in action weaving silk velvets and brocade.

Our other destination in Florence was the Scuola di Cuoio (Leather School) at Santa Croce. We learned how to tell the difference between real and faked leather of different animals. All their leather comes from certified sustainable farms. 

Copper pots are a dream to cook in, but they require maintenance. We got to watch the process at Antichi Mestieri (Ancient Crafts) where top restaurants send their pots and pans to be refurbished.

Then it was off to Sant'Antioco again for Tastes & Textiles: Sea Silk in Sardinia where we were trying a new hotel right on the lagoon. Perfect! This is where we'll stay for Celebrating Sardinia in April 2023.

One of the highlights is the costume workshop where we can feel the fabric and see the beautiful embroidery and needlework up close.

We decided that a 3500-year-old megalithic tower was the perfect setting to capture the elegance of the bags we had made with Tommaso Cecchi de' Rossi on the Wine to Dye For tour!

Fanfare please for the debut of our new aprons at the final Art & Science of Gelato course of the year. They may not be as cheerful as our old ones, but I know for sure they're not made by slave labour, and the cloth is so nice to touch. They're designed and produced specially for us by Busatti of Anghiari, where we have a private tour during the Woad & Wool tour.

In a little break from longer tours and courses Erica took a family to pick olives and taste oil at Agriturismo Alle Camelie.

The last day of October saw Erica back on the train to Salerno Province for another Mozzarella & its Cousins course. It confirmed we were right to base the course totally in Salerno. The other great improvement is that the last two days of the course take place during production runs at Prime Querce. No need now to stay an extra two days to witness the production.

The winter months brought the Advanced Salumi Course Tuscany and students from all over the world. In November we welcomed guests from Finland, the Netherlands, USA, France and Romania.

What better way to end the year than with a nose full of white truffle? Here are two happy guests snuffing the truffle they uncovered on the new Truffle Course. Can you imagine anything better?

I hope you've enjoyed this mega run down of our 2022 tours and courses. We'd love to see you in 2023. Browse the website to find out what's on offer and don't hesitate to contact Erica with any questions.

If you landed here by chance and would like to be notified of future posts, you can sign up here. 

​If you’d like periodic news about our tours and courses, sign up here.