Tastes & Textiles: Wine to Dye For
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2022: May 31–June 10 (2 places)
2022: September 13–23 (FULL) 2023: June 13–23 | September 12–22 Look at our brand new itinerary: click on Itinerary tab below Sign up for our newsletter to receive updates This small-group textile and food tour takes you to the cities of Pistoia and Pescia and the Renaissance hunting reserves of the Medici dynasty in Tuscany. Our game is their textile and culinary traditions, both preserved and renewed. You encounter rich silks woven for the church and aristocracy and the handiwork of peasant women. In Florence you learn about velvet and brocade. You weave a basket with marsh reeds, try your hand at the vanishing art of making watermarked paper, learn to knot a fishnet and embroider it and do workshops with a young man who has discovered the magic of using his wine as a mordant for dyeing leather and fabric. You'll dine in private homes and at a biodynamic vineyard, analyse what green tastes like during an olive oil tasting, and find out how to make pecorino cheese. Very small group (only 8–10 guests). Extend your stay: a 4-night extension to visit weavers and food producers in Sardinia. Find out more at Tastes & Textiles: Sea Silk in Sardinia You may also be interested in the original Tastes & Textile tour Hanging by a Thread and our tour Tastes & Textiles: Woad & Wool To request a booking form email info@sapori-e-saperi.com |
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Itinerary at a glance Pistoia Day 1 — Meet at Pistoia train station, transfer to Locanda San Marco, Pistoia, and welcome dinner Day 2 — Get acquainted with Pistoia (European Capital of Culture 2017), visit textile museum and family producer of wedding sweets Day 3 — Day in Florence with visits to: Fondazione Lisio which is dedicated to weaving velvets and brocades by hand, Scuola di Cuoio which carries forward the leather tradition of Florence in modern designs Day 4 -- Basket-making workshop with marsh reeds, visit villa of former Pope, olive oil tasting ‘What does the colour green taste like?’ Day 5 — Free morning; vineyard tour, tasting & lunch; visit producer of sun-dried figs with fennel seeds Day 6 — Filet a modano (embroidery on fishnet) workshop at Medici villa Pistoia to Pescia Day 7 — Transfer to Villa Colle Olivi, Pescia. Dyeing workshop using wine Day 8 — Use dyed leather to make a handbag or backpack Day 9 — Visit coppersmith, lunch from his pots & pans, watermarked paper workshop Day 10 — Visit cheesemaker and farm, tasting lunch, visit villa with 17th-century silk bed hangings and grandfather’s needlepoint Day 11 — Departure For more details, please click Itinerary tab above and read text in window below it Highlights of tour Fibre & Textile Experiences
Gastronomic Experiences
History, Art & Architecture
Other Activities
For more details, please click Itinerary tab above To request a booking form email info@sapori-e-saperi.com |
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Pistoia Day 1: Tuesday Arrive at Pistoia train station and transfer to Locanda San Marco, a cosy B&B inside the old city of Pistoia. Introduction to the tour and dinner in nearby restaurant Baldo Vino. Accommodation: Locanda San Marco, Pistoia | Meals: dinner Day 2: Wednesday Since we’re spending the next five days in and around Pistoia, today we become acquainted with its charms. Our morning visit to the duomo, baptistry and mediaeval shops ends at the Palazzo Rospigliosi where we have a private tour of a collection that calls itself an embroidery museum, but is far more than that. The objects ranging from undergarments to handbags to a stunning depiction of the Miracle of the Madonna del Letto (Madonna of the Bed) gives us an insight into the daily lives of women of only a generation or two ago. Rospigliosi himself was Pope Clement IX from 1667 to 1669, and upstairs there’s a museum of silks, laces and slippers worn by clerics which wouldn’t be out of place in a ballroom. After a light lunch we head to the historic sweet shop where Georgia Baroni, descendant of founder Bruno Corsini, welcomes us and shows us how they make confetti. The word derives from ‘confectionary’, and although we now throw small bits of coloured paper at weddings, Italians still throw real candy. It’s not all benign; poisoned sugar-coated almonds anyone? For those who survive, dinner at Ristorante Rafanelli, a beacon of good eating in Pistoia since it opened in 1927. After nearly a century, it is still run by the same family. Accommodation: Locanda San Marco, Pistoia | Meals: breakfast, lunch, dinner Day 3: Thursday We catch the train to Florence for private tours of Fondazione arte della seta Lisio and Scuola di Cuoio. Both institutions were originally set up as private charities to provide skills and employment for young people, and they continue their mission. The Lisio specialises in hand-woven velvet and brocade, while the Scuola di Cuoio carries forward traditional Florentine leather craft. We return to Pistoia to dine at a Slow Food osteria. Accommodation: Locanda San Marco, Pistoia | Meals: breakfast, lunch, dinner Day 4: Friday Today we visit Renato Panati on the edge of the Padule di Fucecchio (Fucecchio Marsh). Renato excels at manual skills from woodworking to upholstery to bricklaying to basket weaving, always learning from old masters. He is keen to pass on his knowledge to others and was delighted when I asked him to lead you in a hands-on basket workshop. We have lunch at his workshop. After we finish our baskets, there’s a special treat in store. My friend and professional olive oil taster Elisabetta is taking us to her friend Andrea’s agriturismo (farm restaurant). It’s next door to Villa Rospigliosi, commissioned by the very same Clement IX whose palazzo we visited in Pistoia. We have a quick tour of the villa before Elisabetta leads us in an investigation of the flavour of the colour green, a tasting of extra virgin olive oil. Dinner cooked by her and Andrea. Accommodation: Locanda San Marco, Pistoia | Meals: breakfast, lunch, dinner Day 5: Saturday After a free morning to catch our breath, we visit the biodynamic wine estate Fattoria di Bacchereto inside the walls of a Medici hunting reserve. Weather permitting, we lunch in the garden, and the charming owner Rosella Bencini Tesi leads us on a personal tour of the estate and the cellars. The Medici family had thirty villas (country residences), so it’s not surprising that there are several near Bacchereto. Besides vineyards and olive groves, we see fig orchards everywhere. During a visit to Siro Petracchi, we learn how the figs are cut in half, placed to dry in the sun, sprinkled with fennel seeds and paired up again—all by hand! During the tasting you'll sample other fig products as well. Dinner at a nearby agriturismo. Accommodation: Locanda San Marco, Pistoia | Meals: breakfast, lunch, dinner Day 6: Sunday It was Elisabetta who sent me a link to this video about an exhibition of filet a modano needlework at Villa Magia, yet another Medici villa where there was a filet school for young women in the 1930s. We have a hands-on workshop with three women who still practise the art, as well as a tour of the villa and gardens. Elisabetta furnishes our picnic lunch. For our last evening in Pistoia we have a seafood dinner at Ristorante Corradossi (non-fish dishes are also on the menu). Accommodation: Locanda San Marco, Pistoia | Meals: breakfast, lunch, dinner Pistoia to Pescia Day 7: Monday Travelling west along the base of the Pistoia Mountains we arrive at a pair of country villas overlooking Pescia, where we will stay next door to our hosts Tommaso Cecchi de’ Rossi and his wife Chiara Cantini. They are eager for you to experience the culture and lifestyle of their part of Tuscany. After settling in we go down to Tommaso’s workshop where Chiara has organised our lunch, and Tommaso leads a hands-on dyeing workshop using wine as a mordant. Tommaso studied agronomy at university in preparation for taking over the vineyard at his family's estate Marzalla. During the harvest he accidentally spilled vinaccia (grape skins and seeds left after pressing grapes) on his favourite leather briefcase and was enchanted by the resulting colour. He started experimenting, finally patenting the method and designing his own collection of bags and sandals. Dinner at the home of their friend Letizia, expert and knowledgeable cook of traditional Tuscan cuisine. Accommodation: Villa Colle Olivi & Villa Vezzani, Pescia | Meals: breakfast, lunch, dinner Day 8: Tuesday We spend the day with Tommaso using the leather you dyed yesterday to create a versatile bag that you can use as a handbag or backpack. You’ll learn how to use a pattern and to cut and glue the leather. At the end of the day, you’ll have a beautiful piece of work to take home with you. Chiara delivers our lunch to the workshop, and we go to dinner again at Letizia’s beautiful home. Accommodation: Villa Colle Olivi & Villa Vezzani, Pescia | Meals: breakfast, lunch, dinner Day 9: Wednesday I don’t suppose you’ve ever wondered what papermakers ate? Today you’ll find out from a coppersmith who will show you how he makes a copper pot, and will serve you a papermaker’s lunch. After lunch we head a few minutes down the valley to the Paper Museum which is busy rescuing the disappearing art of watermarks formed and stitched by hand for a paper-making workshop. For dinner we’re off to find out what new delicacy Letizia has prepared for us. Accommodation: Villa Colle Olivi & Villa Vezzani, Pescia | Meals: breakfast, lunch, dinner Day 10: Thursday This morning we meet a courageous group of young people who have bought an abandoned farm and are restoring its productivity. None of them had any practical agricultural experience, yet they're on an exhilarating steep learning curve to success. You'll make cheese with Alessandro and visit the sheep, pigs, vineyards and olive groves with Michele. They're rightly proud of their new enterprise and will inspire you with hope for the future of our food. Lunch is a tasting of their produce and wine. Travelling back in time we arrive at Villa Torrigiani where our tour takes us behind its extravagant baroque façade to an interior where original silk bedclothes mingle with granddad’s needlepoint. A magnificent farewell dinner at Letizia’s. Accommodation: Villa Colle Olivi & Villa Vezzani, Pescia | Meals: breakfast, lunch, dinner Day 11: Friday After breakfast, transfer to Pescia train station or to Amerigo Vespucci airport Florence (from where there is a shuttle to Pisa airport and a tram to central Florence) To request a booking form email info@sapori-e-saperi.com |
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Erica JarmanFollowing Heather’s careers as archaeologist, orchestra and artist manager and chef, she Italianised her name to Erica and came to Lucca to pursue her passion for traditional artisan food. Her tours, inspired by her infectious curiosity, open captivating new worlds to her guests.
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La Locanda San Marco, Pistoia A B&B inside the 16th-century Palazzo Caluri located in a quiet part of the city centre. Antique furniture combined with modern conveniences, including air conditioning, wifi, hair dryers. http://www.lsmpistoia.it/bedandbreakfast/ |
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Villa Colle Olivi, Pescia A beautiful early 20th-century villa in the 17th-century style. Bedrooms are large and airy with period furniture. Some share a bathroom with the adjacent bedroom. Exquisite views over the rolling countryside. On-site bar, swimming pool, wifi. http://www.villacolleolivi.com/ |
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Price Per person: 3290 EUR Single supplement: none (single room included in fee) Deposit: €300 when you book Balance: due 8 weeks before course starts Claim your 5% loyalty discount if you've booked a small group tour with us before. Includes Friendly knowledgeable English-speaking guide throughout your stay 10 nights welcoming, relaxing accommodation, en suite bathrooms (private bedrooms with two sharing a bathroom at Villa Colle Olivi) Local ground transportation for 11 days (includes one group transfer between meeting point and accommodation and one return after the tour). Please check with us before you book your travel to make sure it fits the tour schedule. Transfers at times other than those provided for the group will be at your own expense. Daily continental breakfast, 8 lunches, 10 dinners Guided visits and workshops with artisans, cooking lesson, museum and villa entrance fees Does Not Include Airfares Travel and cancellation insurance (compulsory) Wine and drinks other than those served with meals, additional meals Personal expenses Meeting Point Pistoia train station. Direct train from Santa Maria Novella railway station in Florence. Nearest airport: Amerigo Vespucci (Florence-Peretola) Next nearest airports: Pisa or Bologna Next: Rome or Milan The rail system in Italy is very good. You can get easily by tram (Florence-Peretola) or train from any of these airports to Santa Maria Novella station in Florence from where you can catch the train to Pistoia where we will pick you up. If you are flying from outside Europe, we suggest you arrive a couple of days early to recover from jet lag so you can fully enjoy your time with us. We are happy to advise about where to stay and eat and what to do before and after your tour. Departure Point Pescia railway station or Amerigo Vespucci Airport (Florence-Peretola) from where there is a shuttle to Pisa airport and a tram to central Florence One transfer will be provided no earlier than 9.00 am. Allow 10 minutes to get to Pescia station. Allow 1 hour to get to the airport plus check in and boarding time). If you need to travel earlier, a taxi can be arranged at your own expense. Diet Most dietary requirements can be accommodated as long as you tell us in advance. There is a space on the Booking Form for this information. Please bear in mind that as well as textiles, the tour focuses on the art of choosing, cooking and eating good food. If your diet is very restricted, you may not get full enjoyment from it. Physical Fitness You must be fit enough to walk on steep cobbled streets and rough farm tracks, climb stairs, stand during museum visits. Dress Informal. Jeans or smart trousers are acceptable everywhere. Raincoat/jacket advisable. Comfortable walking shoes are recommended. Weather in September Weather is no longer average, but here’s what the statistics say: 14–26°C/57–79˚F, precipitation 89 mm/3.5 in The itinerary is subject to change if necessary due to weather or agricultural conditions or other events outside our control. To request a booking form email info@sapori-e-saperi.com |
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You truly offer unique tours, yet it is very hard to describe exactly why—we go off the beaten path, visit small towns, and some large; you provide a direct connection to the people, the places, the past and the current culture. The quality and beauty you show us in the textiles and other arts from the past, are more than matched in the excitement we see in the newest artisans and their efforts to preserve traditions while still moving them forward and ensuring their relevance to the current local and Italian culture. These artisans are exemplars of what could be the future of these and other crafts globally—from art across the spectrum to, of course, the delicious food.
Sue Scott, USA, Tastes & Textiles: Wine to Dye For, September 2019
Tourists have been going to Italy for hundreds of years. In fact, I have been many times myself, but had not yet experienced the Italy of Sapori & Saperi. Because of Erica’s expert knowledge of the culture and her respect and affection for the artisans, our experiences were unique. Each day was filled with personal interactions and hands on activities. We lingered over multiple courses of delicious traditional food often prepared for us in people's homes and then retired to perhaps the most charming lodging I have ever inhabited. A part of me is still bumping along those narrow winding roads of the Garfagnana. I am so grateful to have been on this journey.
Gynnie Moody, USA, Tastes & Textiles: Wine to Dye For, September 2019
Erica, thank you for the Italy tour/experience — Wine To Dye For. I’ve traveled alone through Europe and thought tours were for skimming the surface. How wrong I was! Your tour met all my expectations and more. We experienced small Tuscan towns I would never have found on my own, met locals and their families in their homes and shops. I now realize these are NOT guidebook tours. Many thanks.
Pam Shelley, USA, Tastes & Textiles: Wine to Dye For, September 2019
Thank you for the great tour. We saw so much that we would never have seen on our own.
I sent a photo of me doing filet to a friend from my rug hooking group and now they all want me to show them how to do it! This craft will be taken to Australia! I hope I remember how to do it! I plan to try making pasta this week if I can find a large rolling pin. I have learnt so much on our trip.
Kathy Saint, Australia, Tastes & Textiles: Wine to Dye For, September 2018
I had such a rewarding and wonderful trip with you. You really do your research and make the trip an experience. I will treasure the adventure forever!! We met so many nice people and saw their humble yet inspired lifestyles. They were so welcoming and really seemed to enjoy us being there. You have been a blessing in my life.
Janet Castro, artist & weaver, USA, Tastes & Textiles, September 2016
Our Tastes and Textiles tour was so unique! You took us to destinations I would have never found on my own or with another tour. We met enthusiastic and inspiring people who have created a rich and sustainable lifestyle which also preserves the traditions they hold so dear. Our textile and fiber workshops were fun and intriguing. And, we met plenty of characters along the way! With both gorgeous scenery and charming lodging, this trip was a hit with me! Thank you, Erica!
In December 2016, Carol wrote again: Since returning home, the impact of our September trip has slowly yet continually percolated up to my consciousness and I’m blown away by how much it meant and has influenced my thinking.
Carol Bingaman, weaver, USA, Tastes & Textiles, September 2016
