Tastes & Textiles: Sea Silk in Sardinia
Click on topics below for more information
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2023: September 21–26 (in 2023 unique opportunity to book this tour separately from the Wine to Dye For tour)
2024: September 20–24 2025: September 19–23 Availability: 2023: waitlist only | 2024: 4 places | 2025: 7 places Sign up for our newsletter to receive updates This 5-night hop to Sardinia is an extension to our Wine to Dye For tour. We’re going in search of the truth about byssus or sea silk, the dark brown beard of the giant mollusc Pinna nobilis. When cleaned, treated with lemon juice and viewed in bright light, it shimmers like gold thread. Records go back to the 2nd century CE of its use throughout the ancient world to weave rich garments. The mollusc was made a protected species in 1992. We’ll visit the last remaining byssus weavers and have a workshop with the young former student of one of them. At every meal you'll be struck by the differences between Tuscan and Sardinian cuisine, influenced by merchants and conquerors from Phoenicians to Spanish to Genovese. (Maximum 7 people). Click on topics below for more information To request a booking form email info@sapori-e-saperi.com |
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Itinerary at a glance Montecarlo (Lucca) to Sant'Antioco Day 1 — Transfer Montecarlo to Pisa Airport to Sant'Antioco (Sardinia); morning flight to Cagliari (not included in fee) and transfer to MuMA Hostel (inn, not youth hostel), (southwest Sardinia), introduction to tour and welcome dinner Day 2 — Visit shepherd to make pecorino and lunch cooked by him; tour around the island including tour of bronze age nuragic complex and giants’ tomb, dinner at fish shack on the sea Day 3 — Tour of ethnographic museum and subterranean village with woven samples of byssus and private museum of Chiara Vigo; tour of catacombs; costume workshop; visit salt pans; dinner at a biodynamic agriturismo Day 4 — Byssus and natural dyeing workshop with Arianna Pintus, former student of Chiara Vigo; lunch and wine tasting with sommelier; visit megalithic nuraghe and cathedral of Tratalias; dinner in Sant'Antioco at a favourite restaurant of the locals Sant'Antioco to Cagliari Day 5 — Visit Sisters Pes custodians of the tradition of byssus; demonstration of the craft of gold and silver filigree; wine tasting and tasting lunch; transfer to Cagliari; farewell dinner in Cagliari Day 6 – Departure For more details, please click itinerary tab above Highlights of tour Textiles & fibres
Food & wine
Prehistory, culture & architecture
For more details, please click itinerary tab above To request a booking form email info@sapori-e-saperi.com |
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Montecarlo (Lucca) to Sant'Antioco Day 1: Thursday Since flights from Pisa to Cagliari on Fridays depart at 6.30 am, we leave the Wine to Dye For tour on Thursday, one day early. Don't worry, you'll get your cheese fix in Sardinia. At Cagliari airport we grab a quick lunch, and our delightful driver Massimo picks us up and takes us to our hotel, MuMA Hostel, on the island of Sant'Antioco, off the southwest coast of Sardinia. See Prices & Stuff tab above for more details of flights. Accommodation: MuMA Hostel, Sant'Antioco | Meals: breakfast, dinner Day 2: Friday With nearly 3 million sheep on Sardinia and fewer than 2 million people, shepherds are a precious commodity. This morning we visit shepherd Giulio, who makes the famed pecorino sardo. You watch the whole process and by the end you'll have a new appreciation of how liquid milk turns into solid cheese, and how ricotta emerges from the whey. Now it's time to relax around the family table and enjoy the abundant lunch Giulio and his wife have prepared for you. You have a free afternoon to explore the town of Sant'Antioco before our driver Massimo, takes us for a spin to show us some of his favourite spots on the island including the nuragic complex Grutti Acqua and the Giants' Tomb. Here we get an insight into this prehistoric culture which lasted from about 1700 to 200 BCE. We end at his idyllic spot for watching the sunset and dine in a seaside fish shack. Bliss! Accommodation: MuMA Hostel, Sant'Antioco | Meals: breakfast, lunch, dinner Day 3: Saturday After breakfast, we set off on foot to track down the truth about byssus (bissu in Sardinian), the filaments secreted by the bivalve mollusc Pinna nobilis to attach itself to the sea bed. The raw material is surprisingly fine and soft, and it was spun and woven for nearly two millennia in the Mediterranean basin. Although the animal has been a protected species since 1992, during the tour you will meet the last remaining weavers of the fibre. They can tell you how it was harvested and treated to make it shimmer like gold. At Chiara Vigo's private museum, she'll insist on demonstrating the process. At the ethnographic museum you see a beautiful byssus cravat and traditional fabric woven from other yarns. Next door is a preserved underground house inserted into Carthaginian tombs. We also have a guided tour of the catacombs of the Basilica of Sant'Antioco, the patron saint of Sardinia. Sardinians still wear their native costumes for festive occasions, and this afternoon tailor Virginia Garau gives us a backstage view of what the best-dressed bride would have worn from the underwear to the headdress. As the afternoon cools down, we find out how sea salt gets from the ocean to our tables at the salt pans of Sant'Antioco. You'll also probably see a flamingo or several. Dinner at a biodynamic farm where everything on the table comes from the farm or farms of their friends. Accommodation: MuMA Hostel, Sant'Antioco | Meals: breakfast, lunch, dinner Day 3: Sunday We head out into the countryside to Arianna Pintus, who was a disciple of Chiara Vigo until she found the courage to break away. The morning starts in Arianna’s studio with an explanation of her work, and especially the sea silk she has discovered. It comes from a bivalve that isn’t endangered. She shows you how to clean, card, spin and weave it to create traditional bisso patterns. Then we’ll do some natural dyeing with Sardinian plants. We lunch at Agriturismo Sirimagus at Tratalias where sommelier Gianni teaches us about pairing local wine with his wife Lorella's local food. Five minutes down the road we can examine up close how early Nuragic towers were constructed. The old mediaeval town of Tratalias was abandoned due to unforeseen water seepage after a dam was built on the Rio Palmas in 1954. Fortunately, the romanesque church which was once the seat of the bishop of Sulcitana, is well preserved and we stop for a guided tour. Dinner at a favourite restaurant of the locals. Accommodation: MuMA Hostel, Sant'Antioco | Meals: breakfast, lunch, dinner Day 4: Monday The sisters Assuntina & Giuseppina Pes are two of the many women of Sant’Antioco who wove with byssus, two of the many who Chiara Vigo never mentions. Their life stories convey a vivid picture of the culture of weaving before the introduction of industrial fabrics and the near extinction of Pinna nobilis. Another traditional Sardinian craft is gold and silver filigree jewellery. Catarina Espa demonstrates the whole process from a blob of melted silver to a finished piece. Then we're off to the cooperative winery for a tour where you learn how the French wine market impacted winemaking in Sant'Antioco and get to taste wine made from the Carignano grape along with salumi and pane carasau. We wave goodbye to Sant'Antioco as Massimo takes us back to Cagliari where you have a free afternoon to explore the capital city of Sardinia. Farewell tasting menu at Sa Piola. Accommodation: Hotel Gallo Bianco | Meals: breakfast, lunch, dinner Day 5: Tuesday Departure To request a booking form email info@sapori-e-saperi.com |
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Erica JarmanFollowing Heather’s careers as archaeologist, orchestra and artist manager and chef, she Italianised her name to Erica and came to Lucca to pursue her passion for traditional artisan food. Her tours, inspired by her infectious curiosity, open captivating new worlds to her guests.
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MuMa, Sant'Antioco A marine museum that has added a hotel overlooking the lagoon at Sant'Antioco. It calls itself a hostel, but don't take the name seriously. Look forward to bright modern rooms with en suite baths. Eco-sustainability is at the forefront of their philosophy. Wifi, elevator, on-site café. |
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Il Gallo Bianco, Cagliari A family-run boutique hotel conveniently located in the centre of Cagliari three minutes from the station (with direct trains to the airport). ‘Gallo Bianco’ means white rooster which describes the tasteful modern decor. Immense rooftop terrace, good buffet breakfast, wifi in rooms, lift, friendly, efficient service. |
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Price 2023 & 2024 Per person as add-on to Wine to Dye For: 1200 Euros (minimum 6 people) Per person as stand-alone tour: 1375 Euros (minimum 6 people) Single supplement: none (single room included in fee) Deposit: €300 when you book Balance: due 8 weeks before course starts Claim your 5% loyalty discount if you've booked a small group tour with us before. Includes Friendly knowledgeable English-speaking guide throughout your stay 5 nights welcoming, relaxing accommodation, en suite bathrooms Local ground transportation for 5 days. Daily continental breakfast, 4 lunches, 5 dinners Guided visits and workshops with artisans, entrance fees Does not include Airfares Travel and cancellation insurance (compulsory) Wine and drinks other than those served with meals, additional meals Personal expenses Meeting point If you're on the Wine to Dye For tour: We travel as a group at the end of the tour. I will advise you which flight to book from Pisa Airport to Elmas Cagliari. In 2023 it will probably be a Ryanair flight at 10.55 am and will cost around 50 EUR one way. The flight takes 1 hour 10 minutes. If you're arriving separately: There are also flights to Cagliari from other Italian and European cities. You should arrive at Elmas Cagliari airport by noon on the first day of the tour. Departure point Departure point is Il Gallo Bianco hotel, Cagliari where we stay on Monday night. It is a five-minute walk from the station with frequent trains to the airport. The journey takes 12 minutes by train (€1.30). Or the hotel will book you a taxi which takes 15 minutes (€30–35). Diet Most dietary requirements can be accommodated as long as you tell us in advance. There is a space on the Booking Form for this information. Please bear in mind that the tour focuses on the art of choosing, cooking and eating good food. If your diet is very restricted, you may not get full enjoyment from it. As part of our contribution to the environment, we ask you not to drink bottled water on our tours, and we give you a water bottle in return for your commitment. All Italian tap water is safe to drink unless it is marked 'non potabile'. In practice, this means that at a few restaurants, you will not be able to have sparkling water. If you cannot do without sparkling water every day, you will be responsible for your own water needs. Physical fitness There will be a lot of walking on this tour, but most of it is easy on level ground. In Sant'Antioco there are some steep streets. Dress Informal. Jeans or smart trousers are acceptable everywhere. Weather in September Weather is no longer average, but here’s what the statistics say: 16–28˚C / 61–82˚F, rainfall 38 mm / 1.5 in The itinerary is subject to change if necessary due to weather or agricultural conditions or other events outside our control. To request a booking form email info@sapori-e-saperi.com |
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My first trip to Italy with Erica and Sapori e Saperi was more than I hoped for. Besides seeing many of the local sites, we managed to go a little deeper than the average tour by spending time with local families and crafts people and enjoying their hospitality. Especially enjoyable was sharing meals and wine tastings with them along with fun conversations. Because Erica keeps her tours small, you also get a chance to make friends with your fellow travelers. I want to come back to Italy and I want to do it with Erica and Sapori e Saperi.
Judie Dysart, textile artist, USA, Wine to Dye For & Sea Silk in Sardinia, September 2022
Totally charmed by my experiences in Italy with Erica Jarman. The introduction to the culture, food, wine and history of the area was exceptional and the artisans that we met and worked with added so much to the authenticity of my experiences. Ready to book another tour.
Judith Krone, textile artist & instructor, USA, Wine to Dye For & Sea Silk in Sardinia, September 2022
A thoughtful and skillful blend of activity with exposure to traditional skills and the cultural life of Italy topped off by the best food (and wine) you’ve ever tasted. Real people, real food. I feel privileged to have had this experience. I just want to do it all over again.
Jill Peters, weaver, Canada, Wine to Dye For & Sea Silk in Sardinia, September 2022
I had such a rewarding and wonderful trip with you. You really do your research and make the trip an experience. I will treasure the adventure forever!! We met so many nice people and saw their humble yet inspired lifestyles. They were so welcoming and really seemed to enjoy us being there. You have been a blessing in my life.
Janet Castro, artist & weaver, USA, Tastes & Textiles, September 2016
Our Tastes and Textiles tour was so unique! You took us to destinations I would have never found on my own or with another tour. We met enthusiastic and inspiring people who have created a rich and sustainable lifestyle which also preserves the traditions they hold so dear. Our textile and fiber workshops were fun and intriguing. And, we met plenty of characters along the way! With both gorgeous scenery and charming lodging, this trip was a hit with me! Thank you, Erica!
In December 2016, Carol wrote again: Since returning home, the impact of our September trip has slowly yet continually percolated up to my consciousness and I’m blown away by how much it meant and has influenced my thinking.
Carol Bingaman, weaver, USA, Tastes & Textiles, September 2016
