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Santa Zita’s mummy lies in a glass case in a side chapel at the Basilica of San Frediano in Lucca.  San Frediano is the only church in Lucca with a mosaic façade.  iPhoto tells me there are three unnamed faces here. Anyone know them? (Photo: Jeff Blaine) Despite her cadaverous face and bony hands, she looks fresh and almost pretty in the blue dress and white apron of a serving girl.  Santa Zita rests from her housework. She wasn’t one of those martyred saints canonised for suffering a gruesome death in defence of their faith, such as Saint Lawrence who is said to have been grilled alive. Zita (c. 1212–1272) was a humble and hardworking servant, which earned her the affection of the aristocratic family for whom she worked. What they didn’t know was that at the end of each day she went to the kitchen, stealthily wrapped any leftover bread in her apron and distributed it to the poor. The other servants, being jealous of the high regard paid her by the nobleman, decided to get their own back by telling him Zita was stealing from his household. He could hardly believe it, but one evening as she was leaving the house with her apron bulging, he stepped out of the shadows and challenged her to show him what she was hiding. The girl quickly replied it was only some flowers, and was greatly surprised when forced to open the apron to discover it was indeed filled with flowers. Bernardo Strozzi (c. 1581–1644) captured the moment here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zita#/media/File:ThemiracleofStZita.jpg. Her position in the household was safe and Lucca ever since has had an excuse to fill its streets with flowers on her saint’s day of 27 April (or the nearest weekend). I’ve wanted to take part in this happy event for years, but until today I’ve either been away or it was raining, and the thought of a sea of umbrellas and drenched flowers wasn’t enticing. Today was grey, but not wet.  Piazza San Frediano adorned with olive trees Zita had been carried out of her side chapel to a place of honour in the nave.  A few more flowers would have been in order. The Roman amphitheatre has undergone remakes so many times that there are only a few remnants of the Roman structure left. For part of the last century it was the site of the central market until that was moved to the Mercato del Carmine, leaving the piazza of the amphitheatre sad and empty except during the tourist season.  The amphitheatre on a normal grey day (Photo: Jeff Blaine) Today the flower stalls showed how lively it must have been as a market.  A few vegetable, meat and fish stalls would complete the scene.  The Lucchesi were out in force.  The brilliance of the flowers made up for the lack of sun.  Hot!  This year kumquats are the rage. They make exquisite marmalade!  A circus  A summer meadow…  …complete with butterflies
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A guest blog by Bob Schroeder Bob, his brother Dick and their friend Cullen Case came on my Advanced Salumi Course. They wanted to make the most of their visit and signed up for a truffle hunt on the Tuesday afternoon after the extension workshop. Bob gave me permission to republish his enthusiastic report to his family and friends back in the States. January 20, 2015 We went truffle hunting today. Lots of fun. Our guide actually trains dogs. He took Guy Fieri of Food Network fame on a hunt.  Explaining the “Art of the Hunt”!  Excitement as we get ready to go!  Great scenery  A truffle is found  A big one – the biggest of the afternoon!  Savoring the smell  Savoring the smell Thanks, Bob!
In case you don’t know, truffles can be found all year long. Although the white Italian and black Périgord truffles are the stars, they’re all good and well worth tasting. We have seven edible ones in Tuscany. After the hunt, we go back to Riccardo’s home for a truffle feast cooked by his wife Amanda. We sit in their kitchen sipping prosecco with the antipasti and get to be part of the family. Just back from my annual visit to family and friends in Los Angeles, Costa Mesa and Santa Barbara. It was a foodie time. Not least because my sister Gai Klass, before she retired, was top caterer in LA (according to me and the Zagat Guide); my 3-year-old great-nephews are following in the family tradition; my friends in Costa Mesa came on my Advanced Salumi Course last year and are ace picklers, aficionados of Mexican cuisine and blossoming norcini(curers of pork); my friend in Santa Barbara is a private chef (who did a personalised tour with me several years ago); and the rest are great cooks and lovers of good food. I report the latest trends. Armies of pigs have invaded delis, restaurants and antique shops. Everywhere I went pork, from ears to ribs to tails, was on the menu.  Local pork butchered on-site and fermented food served picnic-style at outdoor tables in Solvang  Bacon & Brine artwork  Emperor for a day at a deli near Solvang  Piggy banks at Angels Antiques, Carpinteria  Wild boar bowl at Angel Antiques, Carpenteria As expected wine held sway even in the loos in the Santa Ynez Valley, best known for its Pinot Noir.  If only opticians were so creative But craft beer was running a close second (as it does now in Italy)…  Old West saloons surely were never as good as this. …and came first on Main St, Venice (CA)  Must tell them about Garfagnana 100% farro beer (wheat).  Requires documentation …and in Carpinteria.  How did I get on the wrong side of the tracks from this brewery tap house? Sardinians on Main St, Santa Monica, produce one of Italy’s best exports.  American vehicles queue up for artisan gelato (saffron and hazelnut were a surprisingly good pairing). And everyone was getting on the buy local and gluten-free band-wagons.  But does it taste good? In case you’re in the area, I’m sure they’d all love to see you: Bacon & Brine, Solvang http://www.baconandbrine.com/ Angels Antiques, 4846 Carpinteria Avenue, Carpinteria, DolceNero, 2400 Main Street, Santa Monica http://www.dolcenerogelato.com/ For a dinner that was so good that I forgot to take a photo: Barbareño, 205 W Cañon Perdido Street, Santa Barbara http://barbareno.com/ PS The next generation gets a head start in the kitchen.  Grand-nephew Charlie bakes muffins with nana Gai. |
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